“Flowers and plants are silent presences; they nourish every sense except the ear.” ~ May Sarton
While in Ecuador in 2006 and 2007, we traveled with friends who once lived in the country for four years and were returning to visit old friends and favorite places. As travel companions, we got to experience this beautiful country through their eyes.
One such place on the itinerary was Hacienda Cusin near San Pablos del Lago and south of Otavalo. After spending a night in Quito we drove our rental car north on the Pan American Highway for the two hour scenic drive.
At 8500 feet, Hacienda Cusin is a restored 400 year old estate. At one time, the property comprised of over 100,000 acres and was purchased through an auction from Phillip II, King of Spain, by the Luna family, in 1602. Since then it has passed through several owners, fell into disrepair and much of its acreage sold. Its present owner of two decades bought acreage back and restored the buildings to its Andean heritage and added on extensively. It is a five star place to stay at and the grounds and friendly staff make sure it remains that way.
I felt I had stepped back in time.
White washed walls, Spanish tile roofs, earthen ware pots, randomly placed, looked like it had been that way for centuries, belying the improvements and additions.
The main reception room was warm and inviting. Its owner’s taste for icons, art and handmade tapestries intermingled with cozy seating areas made it feel like home away from home. The adjacent dining room with its heavy wooden tables and chairs reflected the heritage and nobility that once lived here. Aromas coming from the kitchen area reminded me that I was looking forward to dinner.
Flowers danced along the walls and fence rows in a haphazard manner, colors and species intermingled as an informal garden should be. The rich lakebed soil makes a fertile ground for the garden’s restoration.
The beauty of this place is the serenity and peace it exudes as one walks down its paths meandering around the guest houses, some with their own water garden.
There is a library and monasterio (conference center) adorned with hand painted murals as well as dried ears of corn.
Arched windows with colorful hand painted designs add artistic interest to this walkway.
A stable with horses, llamas and even turkeys is worth a walk to just to be outside and notice how close we are to the 15,000 foot snow capped mountains of Imbabura and Cotacachi. Quite the back drop.
This lovely private dwelling was home to our expat friends for several years. It now belongs to another couple from the US who graciously entertained us with a wonderful dinner, Ecuadoran style. Hacienda Cusin granted several expat families property to build on while they lived in Ecuador. We stayed in another private home on the estate that was vacant at the time.
True to the local custom, Valencia, who used to cook for our expat friends, Robert and Paula, prepared and delivered cuy (roasted guinea pig) for Robert…his breakfast. He was in his glory.
Of course, we had to stage it, add the beautiful hacienda grown roses and take pictures.
We watched as Robert ate his cuy.
I believe the rest of us had eggs.
Photography by Ron Mayhew
What a wonderful trip – I especially love the guest house; I could see myself there easily!
This was a beautiful place and like you, I liked the guest house with the water garden. I could indulge myself in solitude and good books.
What a beautiful place. I love Ecuador. Here is the story of my travels. Enjoy.
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Yes, Ecuador just pulls one in. Thanks for your visit and comment.
What a beautiful place! Your descriptions are so colourful and vivid, to go with the fabulous pictures! …. But I am still reeling from the last picture! 😦 hehehe 🙂
Hi Gigi. This was a gorgeous place to visit and I’m grateful that a dwelling was offered to the four of us for those few days which really kept the trip expenses down. I agree! Cuy doesn’t look appetizing but now I wish I had tasted it. I don’t think it is bad as it is made out to be. 🙂
What a treat! 🙂
A treat indeed as well as a retreat…so quiet and peaceful.
🙂
how nice of you to transport me from the coast to the sierra! my favorite is the photo of the callas, but that last one, staged or not,, is probably the loveliest photo of cuy ever taken!
Gracias! Callas are a natural for photography by posing for you and the staging of the cuy was great fun for Ron and Robert. A well dressed cuy, that’s for sure.
ja! yes, it’s the best-dressed cuy i’ve ever seen!
Great trip!! I especially love the mossy walls that give a very soothing feeling… Thank you for sharing these wonderful photographs! 🙂
Thanks for your visit and comments, Sumithra. It was a peaceful place. It’s natural beauty was a photographer’s delight. 🙂
Wow! What beautiful photos… Who wouldn’t love to live in a place like that?
A great place to stay and am glad I had the opportunity.
Your blog always provides a brief respite as I escape to a beautiful and interesting spot. Ron’s photos are, as usual, gorgeous (cuy included), and the hacienda is a fabulous subject. Thanks, Lynne.
Muchas gracias, amigo. A great place for poets, like yourself. 🙂
What a delightful place, Lynne. The photos are beautiful. That poor guinea pig really went out in style, didn’t he? Red roses and gorgeous backdrop too. I think I would also have had the eggs.:D
Yes, one stylish cuy. The eggs were better. 🙂
Very interesting and I enjoyed every one of your photos. Absolutely beautiful and captivating.
Thank you for your valuable comment and visit.
Great place! Everywhere one travels there are treasures to be found.
Isn’t that the truth! You and Dianne have happened upon many.
I would love to stay at that hotel. I am always looking to stay at a place with character and charm. What an opportunity to see how the ex pats live. Great experience
Yes, this Hacienda oozes with graciousness and charm. Thanks for your comment.
Great story. It looks like a very good place to relax and enjoy some fun with friends!
This was a great trip, especially experiencing Ecuador through our expat friends’ eyes. Thanks for your visit and comment.
What a place to live, Lynne! Isn’t it fabulous? Those arched windows with the stencilled rims and the turquoise doorway! It’s all curves. I love it.
I agree, Jo. The whole place was artistic. They even bring fresh bouquets of flowers to the cottages every morning for each room and lay a fire in the fireplace each evening. Lot’s of attention.Lovely place to live or visit.
what a great place and trip!
Thanks for your visit and comment. It was a cultural experience with good friends and making new ones.
Stunningly beautiful hacienda! Must be worth the splurge to stay there. Love every single shot Lynne, right down to the last still life 🙂
I’m just grateful we didn’t have to splurge to stay here. The 2 bedroom house we stayed in was loaned to us, so all we had was meals. Otherwise, I probably would have been elsewhere and just come for lunch in the dining room. But, it was a beautiful place and the owners have restored it handsomely.
Lynne, what a beautiful getaway! The attention to detail and cuisine make it sound as though it’s a must visit. I really like Ron’s capture of the ears of dried corn hanging over the blue/white tiles.
We felt really fortunate to be traveling with friends who wanted to stay here (in a borrowed friend’s house) which enabled us to inexpensively sight see the area as well as enjoy the beauty of the hacienda. The corn does make an interesting picture. I agree. Thanks for you comment, Tricia.
Amazing Photo’s Lynne!
Thanks, Wendy. It was a beautiful place.