Enigma, Spirals and Salvador Dali

The new Dali Museum in St. Petersburg, Florida, was intentionally designed to reflect the mind of Dali.

A walk up the spiral staircase isn’t just a means to get from one floor to another. It was created to emphasize Dali’s obsession with the double helical shape of the DNA molecule. To him, the very basis of life would prove to be spiral. His art would reflect this principal. Note how the concrete spiral continues upward beyond the stairs representing Dali’s thoughts on infinity.

Once on the third floor, you are now in an area that erupts into a large free-form geodesic glass bubble known as the “Enigma” named after a 1929 Dali painting. Made up of 1,062 triangular glass panels it opens the museum to the bay and sky while forming an atrium roof that draws in natural daylight. This is the first use of this type of free-form geodesic geometry in the United States and no two glass panels are alike. Amazing.

It’s a photographer’s play house. Angles. Shadows. Shapes.

Looking out at the beautiful bay is the Mathematical Garden which allows students and visitors to experience the relationship between math and nature. Also, there is a labyrinth or maze in the southeast corner which invites exploration.

The building itself is known as the right-angled Euclidean “treasure box” because of Dali’s fixation with geometry. The architects also had their own requirements. Build a museum that would withstand a category 5 hurricane, hence the thick concrete walls and industrial shape look from the exterior.

Internationally recognized architect Yann Weymouth, who also served as chief of design for I.M. Pei for both the East Wing of the National Gallery of Art in Washington, D.C., and for the Grand Louvre in Paris was responsible for this fantastical and surrealistic design for the HOK architect firm.

The gift shop is a destination in itself. The Rainy Day Taxi is a Rolls Royce with a diver behind the wheel as he is covered with water. One can’t help but notice the praying mantis and colorful Dali umbrellas suspended from the ceiling.

This museum houses the most comprehensive collection of Dali’s art outside of Spain.

We planned this trip in December to coincide with the special Picasso exhibit entitled, Two Legends Side by Side.

Even though the work by these two artists was thematically grouped, Picasso’s art was dwarfed by the magnitude of the Dali collection. However, the self-guided audio tour provided much detail into the mind and art of these two unique men. We weren’t able to take photos in the combined gallery, but were able to in the main Dali gallery.

Docent-led tours are educational and entertaining. This woman was decorated for the part.

I know very little of Dali’s background, but I learned that he incorporated Euclid’s math into some of his art. Known as the Golden Ratio or what photographers call the rule of thirds, he found this pleasing in art and represented the natural world, like the grouping of seeds in the common sunflower, an ordered and methodical arrangement which he felt is very appealing to our human eyes. The Sacrament of the Last Supper hanging in our National Gallery is a good example of mathematical structure.

Dali, one of the most famous Surrealist artists, was known for his wild art and public personality to match. He once said, “It is not necessary of the public to know whether I am joking or whether I am serious, just as it is not necessary for me to know it myself.”

The Surrealist art movement opened the doors to a style of art that the world had never before seen. Odd techniques were used to paint and interpret images of the subconscious and the dream world to bring metaphor and meaning to their work.

During the 1930’s his style of surrealism is depicted in:

Three Young Surrealist Women Holding in Their Arm the Skins of an Orchestra

Dali and his wife Gala fled war-torn Europe and lived in the US from 1940-1948. It was during this period that he no longer considered himself a surrealist. Instead, he turned to classical art and realism. His oil on canvas, Eucharistic Still Life painted in 1952 shows his interest in the Renaissance. This piece I could understand.

In 1931, he painted his most famous painting, The Persistence of Memory which illustrates melting watches. However between 1952 and 1954 he painted The Disintegration of the Persistence of Memory. He said he was inspired one hot day while working in his studio when he noticed some runny Camembert cheese.

It is not clear why these melting watches are so startling and memorable, but they do suggest several powerful associations. According to art analysts, they illustrate how time can be fluid, as in a dream. But a more essential and threatening association concerns our dependence upon clocks. The world runs by the clock – scheduling events is essential for life to function normally. If clocks melt, time becomes meaningless, and there is no way to control activities, leading to chaos.

Reacting to the bombing of Nagasaki and Hiroshima, Dali began to focus on religious themes. In the early 1950’s he referred to his work as the principles of Nuclear Mysticism. He wanted to reanimate his art with spirituality as can be seen in the following. But, of course, he drew himself into the picture.

One of a number of large paintings Dali completed in this era was The Discovery of America by Christopher Columbus which stands a massive 14 feet tall by 9 feet wide. The painting was commissioned by Huntington Hartford, an American businessman, who was heir to the A&P Supermarket, for the opening of his museum, Gallery of Modern Art, in New York. The museum was located on Columbus circle, hence the inspiration for the subject of the painting. As a devout Roman Catholic, Dali portrayed Columbus as the Christian savior, bringing the true church and salvation to the new world.

In the 1960’s Dali experimented with Pop and Op Art, as well as Abstract Expressionism, which eventually led him to creating holographs during the 1970’s.

Can you make out Abraham Lincoln’s profile in the following?

We are so glad we visited this museum which is located only a couple of hours away from us, making return trips easy to do in one day. It is on Florida’s Top Attraction’s list and I can see why.

“Each morning when I awake, I experience again a supreme pleasure – that of being Salvador Dali.” ~ Salvador Dali  

 1904 – 1989

Joy is…

Joy is taking time to play.

An early morning boat ride along the Ganges in Varanasi will always be one of the most significant travel memories for me. This ancient and holy city in India draws thousands of devotees daily to wash a lifetime of sins away in these sacred waters. Watching this ritual itself was spiritually cleansing, but to my surprise (and joy) was seeing a soccer ball being thrown around by a small group of guys. They were having a good time while life was going on around them. Quite a juxtaposition.

This post is linked to Kan Walk Will Travel who has created the Joy is…Challenge.

Bad Timing ~ Woes of Travel

Thanks to the Interstate Highway System, it is now possible to travel across the country from coast to coast without seeing anything.  ~Charles Kuralt, On the Road With Charles Kuralt

Holiday travel can be most frustrating. Canceled flights due to lousy weather or icy roads making driving hazardous. After spending a delightful Christmas in Raleigh with family, we knew there would be traffic on our return home to South West Florida but were shocked at the epic proportions. Driving south on Interstate 95 through South Carolina last week was like driving in a parking lot. It was stop and go for eight hours with speeds of 5- 10 miles an hour for miles and miles. Thank goodness we made reservations south of Savanna well in advance because, we were told, there were no rooms anywhere because of the traffic. It was a combination of post holiday travel as well as the exchange of our national demographics. This means the snow birds are returning to Florida for the winter. This yearly ritual clogged the roads to a standstill and we were caught in it. I believe Montréal had the record with the most RV’s caravanning together. Lots of New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Massachusetts, Michigan, and Illinois tags to count.

The good news is that it wasn’t raining. We had plenty of snacks and water, and mostly time to discus the past, present and future many times over. We took turns driving when we dared get off the interstate and then take a number to get back on. What torture.

During my break from driving, I decided to capture the moment. Obviously, I was bored.

I also turned my attention to the clouds. How unusual I thought. Looked like contrails of planes zigzagging across the sky. So, I cloud gazed and took pictures while occupants of cars creeping along gave me a smile or a thumbs up. A few others began looking up.

Later on, as the sun began to set, unpretentious color revealed itself; almost the end of an imperfect day. Or was it? We observed no major accidents and we eventually arrived home safely to greet a new and meaningful New Year.

We look forward to more travel and adventures… abroad, and on the back roads (and yes, interstates) of this beautiful country we live in. And in between those times, I still reminisce about previous trips and the rich cultural experiences Ron and I have shared together.

Where ever life leads you this year, enjoy the journey, the moment, friendships, family, good books, good health, new recipes, laughter, and don’t forget to study the clouds.

Our forecast today is 84 and sunny. No snow here in Paradise.

Discovering Paris ~ One Bridge at a Time

“Follow the river and you will find the sea.” ~ French Proverb

Paris is a river town.

Walk along the banks of the Seine. Stroll over its historic bridges. Breathe in the iconic views. No one is in a hurry to get across. The ebb and flow of human traffic reflects the flow of the Seine itself. Slow and methodical. Romantic and magical.

No wonder it is an attraction and has been for poets, artists, writers, lovers and now tourists.

Paris has 37 bridges or ponts across the Seine, many of which were built in the early 1800’s. Earlier than that, if we count the Medieval bridges that once stood. The architecture varies, some more sumptuous than others.

Two of my favorite bridges are the Pont au Double and the Pont Alexandre III, two distinctly different bridges, each with its own history and unique architecture.

Adjacent to the Notre Dame is the Pont au Double. It was completed in 1634, and was built to carry patients to the Hotel-Dieu hospital on the left bank. The bridge derives its name from the toll that was charged, a “double” denier, used to pay for the construction. The bridge collapsed in 1709, two more were built and in 1883 the Pont au Double was replaced by a one arch cast-iron bridge.

To appreciate its beauty, one needs to admire it from below. Its bronze arch is simple yet appealing and almost glistens in the afternoon sunlight.

It is on the lower bank that one can observe life on the Seine. Its barges and tour boats get a very close look at the bridge. It appears they can almost touch it.

Looking across, one can observe the people sitting on the steps watching the river traffic.

Couples have a little more privacy.

And, it’s a good vantage point to get more photos of the Notre Dame.

In complete contrast is the Pont Alexander III.

Considered to be the most ornate and extravagant bridge in Paris, it was named after the tzar and was to symbolize Russian-French friendship. His son, Nicholas II, laid the foundation stone in October 1896.

The Beaux-Arts style bridge connects the Champs-Elysees quarter with the Invalides and Eiffel Tower quarter. It opened just in time for the Universal Exposition of 1900 together with several structures that still stand today like the Gare d’Orsay, the Petit Palais and the Grand Palais which were located on both banks of the Seine. The exposition attracted an impressive 50 million visitors.

The bridge is lavishly decorated with lampposts and sculptures of cherubs and nymphs.

On each end of the pont are two large gilt-bronze statues on 56 ft high granite pillars. Each of the ornaments on the bridge was created by a different artist and each represents a different “fame” or subject. On the right bank are the Fame of the Sciences and the Fame of the Arts. On the left bank are the Fame of Commerce and the Fame of Industry.

Visitors flock to this bridge to have their photo taken. I don’t know how many times we were asked to take someone’s photo for them and were glad to do so. Ron is obliging a young couple in this photo. Can you blame them with a view of the Eiffel behind them?

This young couple was having wedding portraits made and I couldn’t help but take one myself.

Different bridges. Different views. All part of the magic and romance of the Seine.

Look Who Just Flew In ~ Paris Streets

Surprise! Surprise! Surprise!

One never knows who or what waits around the next corner or what will catch your fancy while walking down the street.

We were quite accustomed to the many street performers in the town squares or along the Seine. But this was unique.

The first time we noticed him, he was in the Marais,  two blocks from our hotel. The next time was in Le Halle’s and then again in the Latin Quarter at night, his carriage all lit up. Didn’t get a picture of that one. His horn has an unforgettable sound, and you know it is he before you see him.

See what one can do to a three wheeled bicycle? Must visit the scrap yard, soon. I may be on to something.

Have a great week.

Vestiges of Summer ~ September in Paris

“Wherever you go, no matter what the weather, always bring your own sunshine.”  ~  Anthony J. D’Angelo

“Bonjour Madam, Monsieur. Welcome to Paris. It is a good time to be here. The sun is shining. Oui.”

Our talkative cab driver informed us that it had rained and turned cold the previous two and a half weeks and now summer has returned. His good spirits were contagious and I hoped our good weather would last.

It did.

Our primary purpose for this Paris trip was for Ron to attend a week long Street Photography Workshop led by Peter Turnley. Peter’s opening remarks to the group of participants and me, the tag-a-long, was, “of all the years I’ve spent in Paris, I believe you are going to experience some of the best September weather we have ever had.”

And, he was right. Temperatures were in the 70’s, low humidity, and perfect walking and photography weather. As planned, Ron and I remained another week to enjoy Paris at our leisure. This was our first visit and already, I want to return.

Weather is a universal topic and subject to daily comments wherever one lives. From our hotel manager to shop keepers, or anyone we came in contact with, we were reminded of the previous two week’s weather and how lucky we were to be here, now. Big cities can be harsh and unfriendly, but the beautiful weather seemed to bring out the best in everyone. Plenty of smiles, eye-contact, respect and an overall friendly, helpful attitude.

The Sun King, Louis IV, left behind vestiges of 17^th century France, glittering extravagances which include grand mansions (now hotels), squares, gardens, and theaters. Presently, these public places once used by the aristocracy, prove to be lovely settings for everyone… for enjoying and embracing the remnants of summer.

Walking through Les Tuileries and Jardin de Luxembourg found us in a world of people who were enjoying their leisure time. Of course, some were tourists, like us, resting for a minute while checking the map to pinpoint the next location to be marked off the list, but many were Parisiennes, perhaps on lunch break, or just taking time to read, nap or lounge in the sun while taking advantage of their abundant green spaces.

The outdoor cafes, of course, were always brimming with couples and small groups, lingering in the sunshine with an espresso or glass of wine.

There was always a crowd on the lawn at the base of the Eiffle, and sitting on the wall around the Louvre was a favorite resting spot.

Place Igor Stravinsky, located by the Pompidou Center, is not only dominated by its creative and whimsical fountains, but also by the many locals and tourists who find its location perfect for eating a gelato or watching the world go by…in the sun, of course.

In the park adjacent to St. Eustache, a young woman seemingly enjoyed her time alone to read while taking advantage of the perfect weather.

Some young people along the Seine took a more serious approach to holding on to summer.

We learned that part of the joy in absorbing any culture is to sit on a park bench, people watch, slow down and relax. We don’t have to do it all.

With its many parks and fountains, flower gardens and sidewalk cafes, Paris, not only is the City of Light, but for me, this September, the City of Radiant Sunshine.

“Keep your face always towards the sunshine – and shadows will fall behind you.”   ~   Walt Whitman

One Trip Every Month: Cathedral of Trees

“I think that I shall never see a poem as lovely as a tree” ~ Joyce Kilmer

Of all the years we lived in Western North Carolina and hiked the trails surrounding us, we had never been to the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest, near Robbinsville. Encouraged by our son to explore this area as he has done, we did just that. Part of the Nantahala National Forest, this 3,800 acre tract miraculously escaped the lumbering of the 1920s which resulted in the clear-cutting of much of the surrounding areas.

The best way to see a woodland is to hike its trails. The one we chose is a two mile, figure eight loop that winds through one of the few remaining tracts of virgin hardwood forests in the Appalachians.

The old heart got a work out after climbing steps that ran along the rushing creek.  It quickly leveled out to reveal that a few remaining rhododendron were still in bloom.

Soon, we came to a boulder with a plaque centered on it commemorating the poet, Joyce Kilmer, for whom the forest is named. He was a World War I hero who died in France, and the forest was dedicated to him in 1935 by the US Forest Service.

He is also author of the famous poem, “Trees”. Those of my generation surely must recall having to memorize this poem in grade school. The first two and last two lines are the most memorable. This plaque was at the entrance of the trail.

 

As Ron and I walked, we realized  we were whispering. When we encountered other hikers, which were few,  we exchanged whispered hellos. That is the effect the forest has. One of solitude, sereneness and quiet reflection.

As we entered the area of giants, we marveled at the tulip poplars which are about 400 years old. The largest are over 100 feet tall and well over 20 feet in circumference. I have never visited the redwoods and the giant trees of America’s  west coast, so this is as close to large trees as I have been. I felt humbled and in awe.

Today, the Joyce Kilmer Memorial Forest is home to more than 100 species of trees, including virgin stands of sycamore, basswood, oak, and yellow-poplar. All the more important to preserve what we can of virgin forests. The canopy’s density blocked out the gorgeous blue sky and puffy white clouds of summer,  and then the woods opened back up to reassure us of a non-threatening sky. Because it  rained recently, the forest released its earthy aroma while mushrooms sprouted on the leaf laden floor.

Lacy ferns lined the edge of the trail, and large moss covered logs lay where fallen, maintaining a natural state.

It was important to watch our footing as the trail changed from packed dirt to tree roots to large rocks. Watching one’s head was also in order.

High up in the tree canopies we heard the twitter of song birds but could not see them. They remained hidden in their lofty cathedral. And on the trail, the only sound we heard was our own breathing and footsteps. No creatures of the forest made their presence known that day. Perhaps they were watching us instead.

One tree we noticed was heavily carved into. Thankfully, it was limited to the one tree and not others, marring the natural beauty that Joyce Kilmer describes in his simple poem.

Finishing the figure eight loop trail, we crossed the bridge and watched the water gurgling and cascading over the moss covered rocks. Light dappled the area and children could be seen playing in the water.

This was a lovely forest hike.  I felt we had the trail mostly to ourselves which only enhanced our experience of walking in this cathedral of trees.

One last look at the information kiosk before heading back to our family gathering at Lake Fontana.

Have you been on any hikes this summer? And where in this incredibly diverse world were they?

Do check out Marianne of East of Malaga for her One Trip Every Month Challenge.

 

A Moment in Time

“In the end it’s not about how many breaths you took. In the end it’s about the moments that took your breath away.”  ― Volksweisheitheit

If I could stop time, it would be for moments and pictures like this. An afternoon fog lies on the lake calling curious young grandsons to check it out. First, there are three quietly walking on to the dock. From a short distance, we adults just watch them as they enter their private world of discovery. What do they see, we wonder, but are content to just observe. Another grandson joins them to see what they are looking at. A turtle? The loch ness monster? The youngest child who has been taking pictures all day, and some good ones, I might add, ignores his buddies and photographs the beauty. As they head back to the car, one grandson remains for one last look while our son walks down to join him.

Another special moment in time.

Beating the Heat

“We grew up around the creek. We wanted to ensure it would be around for years to come for other people to enjoy.”   ~   Margaux Isaksen

One way to beat the heat this summer is to head for the river or creek. A friend of ours we were visiting took us to Deep Creek near Bryson City, NC, in the great Smoky Mountain National Park to just have a look at how popular tubing has become.

This is what we saw regarding this summer ritual.

First, stop at a roadside vendor to rent your tubes or bring them from home.

Next, find a place to park and claim your picnic table.

You may be content to tube right here or go to the campground on the other side of the river and camp for a week like many do.

If you really want to maximize your tube ride, then you must carry your tube up the paved path to one of the bridges. All ages could be seen hefting those huge water lounges for the long hike. The further you walk, the longer the tube ride.

Remember that small children float faster than adults and if you want to keep up with them, tie them to you.

Most importantly, lay back and enjoy the lush mountain scenery.

Be sure to pause in front of the waterfall or take a dip.

Finally, lounge in the summer sun on your tube after a long ride down a cold water creek.

Summer Fun. Stay Cool!

Hunter’s Café

Road trips for us inevitably take us off the beaten path, especially when we ask locals about the best places to eat.

Take Hunter’s Café.

While stopping in a wine and cheese shop in Darien, Georgia, we noticed a lovely oil painting of an old weathered clapboard restaurant. The rendition of the small café showed it on a dirt road, surrounded by huge live oaks and looked too interesting of a place to pass up. Being supper time and hungry, we inquired about its location, if it still existed. The owner of the wine and cheese shop was the talkative, friendly sort who gladly gave us directions.  I loved his southern drawl and charm.

After getting in the car, we repeated the directions to each other but didn’t bother to write them down, confident that we understood them clearly.

The cafe is located off of hwy 17 on Shellman Bluff in Georgia’s coastal low country. Sound’s easy, but it wasn’t. It took us two stops along the way, asking for directions.  Advised with new information and gas, we headed down dirt roads, lined with massive live oaks with their gnarled branches reaching out over the road. Finding the correct dirt road to get to the sound was the tricky part.

“There it is,”  I proclaim. “Just like the painting.”

Definitely off the beaten path, the crab stew, sweet potato fries and cold beer was worth it, and so was the front porch view of the marsh adjacent to the Julienton River which meanders towards the Sapelo Sound.

In business since 1967, the waitress couldn’t imagine why we had such a hard time finding this iconic place.

“Why honey, everyone knows how to get here. You just didn’t follow the right person. Next time, look for a truck with fishing poles and follow them here,” she laughed.

If only it were that easy.