Looking Beyond Crumbling Buildings ~ Havana

 A land without ruins is a land without memories – a land without memories is a land without history.   Abram Joseph Ryan

Having grown up in Miami during the 50’s, I have iconic images of Havana, Cuba, a large Caribbean island located just 90 miles south of Florida.

Cuba, at that time, was Florida’s playground for the wealthy, which meant I would not be going for long weekends like some of my friends. I pictured Cuba through the media: The Tropicana Nightclub with its flashy, scantily clad dancers, its well known elegant buildings, hotels and wide avenues. Of course I remember the prevalence of American made cars in Havana, but also the mambo music that blared from car radios as teenagers cruised Miami Beach in their ‘57 Chevy’s. The well loved, “I Love Lucy Show” introduced us to Desi Arnaz, a Cuban American with his Latin rhythms and the ever popular conga lines we formed at every school dance. I was always mesmerized by the power of the waves crashing over the Malecon, the broad esplanade which stretches for four miles along Havana’s scenic harbor. Sadly, I also remember the Cuban Missile Crisis, my neighbors building bomb shelters and the air raid drills we were accustomed to.

Now, almost  60 years later, May, 2013, fotografer Ron (my husband who also grew up in Miami) and I travel to Havana through a cultural program and fall in love with this vibrant city and its warm, lovely people.

It is an opportunity of a lifetime.

It almost brings tears to my eyes.

As we approach the famous Malecon, the ocean is quiet today. No waves crashing, but still a perfect backdrop for all that is to come.

Turning on to the Paseo del Prado, the wide tree lined avenue on the way to our hotel, I notice the grand elegant buildings that once were. The crumbling facades, the layers of paint at attempts to cover its decay and I become aware of the many empty storefronts.

Life is teeming above the emptiness. It is where Havana’s people live. Windows and doors are wide open to welcome breezes. Each apartment is utilizing every inch of their balcony with clotheslines, bicycles, potted plants and maybe a chair or two.

Those eyes from above don’t miss a thing on the sidewalks and streets, always calling out to a friend, neighbor or relative. Some silently sit or stand and gaze out over the rusty railings alone with their own thoughts.

There is a pulse above…and a rhythm below. With the exception of the Paseo del Prado, the side streets are narrow. Fewer cars and taxis, but easier for the bicycle pedi-cabs to navigate. We feel the energy as locals go about their daily routine. We see occasional thumbs up which means “welcome” and usually hear an “hola” from someone.

After awhile, the decaying, crumbling buildings fade into the background as the Cubans themselves come into focus. Their resilience, sense of pride, loyalty to family is reflected in their eyes.

Life has been hard for many, but according to our Cuban guide, there has been improvement since the late 90’s.  It is evident in the restoration projects within Havana’s historic district, a UNESCO site, providing jobs in the labor force. Also, we are told restrictions are easing up regarding paladors, home restaurants as well as encouragement for Cubans to start their own small businesses, a major change.

Young people are not hesitant about sharing their hopes and dreams.

When I asked these three young girls what they wanted to be when they grew up, they replied individually, a dancer, a teacher, and a model.

There is beauty and color everywhere…among the peeling walls.

Walking is not just putting one foot in front of the other… it is moving the hips and not noticing or caring who watches.

Street dances and rumbas allow for the hips to sway and a release of creative energy for the young and the old.

The elderly, I’m sure, remember better times…but their souls are not crumbling. Cuba is complex. I came home with more questions than answers, but we enjoyed its pulse and vitality.

Photography by Ron Mayhew

Related article: Havana, Cuba, Not What I Expected and Much More.

Havana Daydreaming…

We just came back from Havana after experiencing a culture rich in the arts, music and dance. Creative energy is felt throughout the city. It vibrates from within and has a pulse of its own. Much to reflect on. Where to begin?

Ron and I will get some posts up as soon as we can, something we look forward to. In the meantime, we are behind in responding to yours. I know you understand. We’ve all been there.

Hope everyone has a good week. Safe travels to wherever life is leading you.

Traveler Lynne

A Walk in the Clouds ~ Bellavista Cloud Forest ~ Ecuador

 “In every walk with nature one receives far more than he seeks.” ~
John Muir

Leaving the main road and driving the winding one lane gravel track for twelve miles was an adventure in driving, but worth the effort. The four of us had arrived mid afternoon for our one night stay at the Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve.

Stepping out of the car I could smell the earthy aroma of moss and decaying vegetation while being enveloped by a fine mist…the clouds. It was ever so still. I didn’t want to break the silence of this intrusion into the natural world, but we were welcomed most heartily by one of the staff.

Perched at an altitude of 6500’ in the Tandayapa Valley region near Mindo, Bellavista has grown from 136 acres in 1991 to its present 1800 acre reserve and eco-lodge. Owned by a British/Columbian couple, Richard and Gloria Parson’s, their mission is education and preservation. A cloud forest is a pre-montane/subtropical forest in the roughly 3000 to 8200 foot range. Its biodiversity attracts serious researchers as well as bird and plant lovers from all over the world. According to their website, Bellavista is part of the Mindo Area of International Importance for Birds, the first area so designated in South America, by Birdlife International in 1997.

The iconic landmark of Bellavista is its geodesic dome, designed by the owner. It is a four story dwelling built with precisely cut glass panels and wood. The dining room and living area are on the first floor. Its walls are largely glass which leads to viewing decks surrounding the building. I had the feeling I was in a tree house looking out into a green world teeming with bird life, orchids and bromeliads. The 360 degree view from the dome allows the rugged peaks of Pichincha and Cotacachi in the distance to be seen on clearer days.

Our rooms were located on the second floor of the dome…accessible by climbing a ladder, one at a time. The dorm and family rooms are on the third and fourth floors. The rooms were simply furnished with handsome wool blankets covering the beds. Each  room had large windows for viewing the shrouds of mist in the distance. We decided that we would go back to the car, get only what we needed for the night, use our day packs and bring no luggage in. Smart decision.   There are several guest houses on the property, in addition to the geodesic dome house.

Leaving our windbreakers/rain jackets on, we spent our time outside, listening to the natural hum that was in the air. Over 300 species of birds are recorded here, but we weren’t able to spot very many. However, the various species of hummingbirds kept up a steady pace to the feeders placed around the viewing decks. But to see this tiny little hummer slowing down briefly to have its picture taken while perched on the bromeliad was delightful to watch.

Being on the equator, flowers bloom year round.

The naturalist guiding our “walk in the clouds” pointed out orchids. Some were at ground level in the ditches, others danced from trees like butterflies. Approximately 4200 species of orchids can be found in Ecuador and more are discovered each year. I learned that orchids are the largest of plant species in the world.

With their giant spikes bending toward the light, giant bromeliads clung to branches.

The New York Botanical Gardens wrote that the diversity of epiphytes (“air plants” that grow on other plants) is higher in the cloud forests of Ecuador, Colombia and Peru than anywhere else on the planet. Because of the cool and humid environment, plant life thrives in these conditions and the canopy level cloud cover provides the necessary moisture.

This is a beautiful place to spend a couple of days. There are trails and four waterfalls to lure hikers on and off the beaten path. We didn’t have that kind of time to spend , but I can see why it is a special place to view the flora and fauna.

I remember that our dinner was quite tasty and that we just about had the place to ourselves that evening. The four of us played cards before turning in early. Those wool blankets were a life saver as the walls of our wooden and glass room became as cold and damp as the outdoors and our heater didn’t work.

The next morning we once more took a walk in the clouds before winding down the narrow road and heading to Quito.

Beautiful Ecuador.

“Something will have gone out of us as a people if we ever let the remaining wilderness be destroyed … so that never again can we have the chance to see ourselves single, separate, vertical and individual in the world, part of the environment of trees and rocks and soil, part of the natural world and competent to belong in it.” — Wallace Stegner

Photography by Ron Mayhew.

Hacienda Cusin ~ Ecuador

“Flowers and plants are silent presences; they nourish every sense except the ear.”    ~  May Sarton

While in Ecuador in 2006 and 2007, we traveled with friends who once lived in the country for four years and were returning to visit old friends and favorite places. As travel companions, we got to experience this beautiful country through their eyes.

One such place on the itinerary was Hacienda Cusin near San Pablos del Lago and south of Otavalo. After spending a night in Quito we drove our rental car north on the Pan American Highway for the two hour scenic drive.

At 8500 feet, Hacienda Cusin is a restored 400 year old estate. At one time, the property comprised of over 100,000 acres and was purchased through an auction from Phillip II, King of Spain, by the Luna family, in 1602. Since then it has passed through several owners, fell into disrepair and much of its acreage sold. Its present owner of two decades bought acreage back and restored the buildings to its Andean heritage and added on extensively. It is a five star place to stay at and the grounds and friendly staff make sure it remains that way.

I felt I had stepped back in time.

White washed walls, Spanish tile roofs, earthen ware pots, randomly placed, looked like it had been that way for centuries, belying the improvements and additions.

The main reception room was warm and inviting. Its owner’s taste for icons, art and handmade tapestries intermingled with cozy seating areas made it feel like home away from home. The adjacent dining room with its heavy wooden tables and chairs reflected the heritage and nobility that once lived here. Aromas coming from the kitchen area reminded me that I was looking forward to dinner.

Flowers danced along the walls and fence rows in a haphazard manner, colors and species intermingled as an informal garden should be. The rich lakebed soil makes a fertile ground for the garden’s restoration.

The beauty of this place is the serenity and peace it exudes as one walks down its paths meandering around the guest houses, some with their own water garden.

There is a library and monasterio (conference center) adorned with hand painted murals as well as dried ears of corn.

Arched windows with colorful hand painted designs add artistic interest to this walkway.

A stable with horses, llamas and even turkeys is worth a walk to just to be outside and notice how close we are to the 15,000 foot snow capped mountains of Imbabura and Cotacachi. Quite the back drop.

This lovely private dwelling was home to our expat friends for several years. It now belongs to another couple from the US who graciously entertained us with a wonderful dinner, Ecuadoran style. Hacienda Cusin granted several expat families property to build on while they lived in Ecuador.  We stayed in another private home on the estate that was vacant at the time.

True to the local custom, Valencia, who used to cook for our expat friends, Robert and Paula, prepared and delivered cuy (roasted guinea pig) for Robert…his breakfast. He was in his glory.

Of course, we had to stage it, add the beautiful hacienda grown roses and take pictures.

We watched as Robert ate his cuy.

I believe the rest of us had eggs.

Photography by Ron Mayhew

Expat Friends & Exploring Ecuador

A good companion shortens the longest road.  Turkish Proverb

Our travel companions had lived in Ecuador for four years as expats before moving back to the US, where we first met them. Returning to Ecuador for a visit in 2006 and 2007, we traveled with them both times. During that period we were able to experience the country through their eyes as well as accompany them as they revisited old friends and favorite locales. We couldn’t have had better guides or companions.  After spending one night in Manta, Ecuador, and visiting the local fishing families the next morning, we drove along the beautiful Pacific Coast taking in the views. The advantage of renting a car allowed us to go at our own pace.

It wasn’t a particularly clear day, but we headed for Puerto Lopez for lunch. Robert, our friend wanted to eat spondylus which is the meat from the spiny oyster and this town was noted for it. Local fishermen harvest it from off the coast, sell the meat and then the shells are turned into beautiful jewelry. Whale watching is also a tourist attraction along this portion of the coast.  The street became wider as we entered the Malecon area and numerous restaurants spilled out onto the side walks.

After a scrumptious meal of ceviche, grilled shrimp, spondylus, (Robert was not disappointed) fried plantains and rice, all topped off with cervezas, we took time to stroll through the shops. The town was quiet, not much activity, so hoping to make a sale from us gringos was their priority. Today, spondylus is on the endangered list and can not be served any more.

We then headed for the Alandaluz Ecological Tourist Center near Puerto Rico. This is where we would spend the night. I had read about this place in Moon’s Handbook of Ecuador. It was described as being an environmental friendly establishment with composting toilets, solar hot water, organic gardens and a full recycling program. I like the self-sustainable and ecologically sound philosophy it was touting plus it had even received numerous awards.

The large private bungalows were constructed from bamboo and the roofs were thatched. They had their own verandas outfitted with bright, colorful, hand woven hammocks, each overlooking the gardens or the ocean. Ours was ocean view.

The dining room was in a separate bamboo building with a high, geometric, round ceiling. Each seating area provided its own cozy, intimate, atmosphere. Probably the best meal I had in Ecuador was here: we chose corvina (sea bass) with peanut sauce. Turning in early, the pounding surf was all the medicine one needed for a good night’s sleep.

The next morning we were served pancakes with homemade mora (black berry syrup).

Wearing slickers, we walked down to the beach. Pure solitude. No one around but the four of us. Empty palapas dotted the beach.

In the other direction were the magnificent cliffs, formed by the seas.

Being a shell collector, I found none. Instead, I picked up and came home with numerous smooth turquoise rocks that had washed ashore. They remind me of fun, laughter, good times, good food and lots and lots of driving and exploring beautiful Ecuador, together.

Next stop on this road trip is Salinas, then Guayaquil.

** In preparing this reminiscence, I looked up the Alandaluz Ecological Tourist Center and sadly, it doesn’t seem to be in business anymore. If anyone reading this post knows anything about this, I would like to know.

All photographs by Ron Mayhew.

Fishing Families: Manta Ecuador

Fishing is much more than fish…. It is the great occasion when we may return to the fine simplicity of our forefathers.       Herbert Hoover

Large sea ports and tiny fishing villages throughout the world all have their allure and special charm. Along the Pacific Coast of Ecuador lies a sea port town known for its commercial fishing. With just a half a day to spend in Manta, the capital of Manabi Province, we headed for the beach where the fishermen gather.

Our timing was perfect.

It was mid morning and a group of men and women working together were pulling a net containing a large catch of tiny fish. Competing for stray fish were the noisy frigate birds darting up and down just over the net handler’s heads.

For a long time, I watched and wondered how these villagers would ever bring that heavy laden net in. Instead, the “scoopers” went to them. Using a large colander, a man scooped the flopping fish into large plastic tubs which were taken up to the beach.

The tubs were either loaded into the bed of trucks…

… or the fish were transferred into large porous sacks, ready for market or the cannery.

Fish stalls were open for business and proudly held up their catch for me to see.

Squid was also available.

Manta is a Pre-Columbian culture, existing 1,000 years before the Spaniards arrived in 1535. It was known as Jocay which means “fish house.” It is believed that these ancient Mantenos once navigated the oceans in dugouts and rafts as far as Panama and Peru and perhaps the Galapagos Islands.

Boat building is still a skill, but far from the days of the dugout.

Today, Manta has the largest sea port in Ecuador and its population as of 2001 is 192,000. International corporations such as Bumble Bee and Van Camps have large tuna processing factories in Manta and export products to Europe and the US.

In one of the roundabouts is a large mural paying tribute to this vital fishing industry.

Coastal Ecuador is bursting with natural beauty. Long strips of sandy beaches dotted with small fishing villages are typical of what one finds while driving the scenic route. It was time to move on.

Destination: Puerto Lopez for lunch and then continue on to Alandaluz Ecological Center for the night.

All photographs by Ron Mayhew Photography

SWAHILI 101

Language is the blood of the soul into which thoughts run, and out of which they grow.  ~ Oliver Wendell Holmes

Jambo fellow bloggers.

How much Kiswahili (Swahili ) do you recognize? ( glossary below)

Before we volunteered at The Ilula Orphan Center in Ilula, Tanzania, we were given a handbook which included suggested words and phrases to practice. While visiting any country, a little local lingo rolling off the tongue becomes survival language, while other phrases are necessary to exhibit good manners and that you care enough to learn a little.

Ron & I were assigned a staff member to be our new rafiki. Morning, noon and evening she expected us to say the proper Swahili greetings for how are you this morning, how are you this afternoon and how are you this evening?

I mastered it and she beamed. Ron didn’t do so well.

Throughout our stay, Ron was called Babu and I was called Bibi. I guess the grey hair earned us that honor. We also heard ourselves called mzungu from village children as we walked into town. There weren’t many of us mzungus around.

Every evening when we bid good night to the girls, they would reply, lala salama, the two most beautiful words to hear.

Soon after we got home from this wonderful trip, we threw a lively Afican party for our friends which included drumming, singing and good food. Before long, men were wearing the kanga cloths and having their pictures taken. Of course, the evening wouldn’t really be complete without a slideshow travelogue of our pictures shown through the TV.  Indeed, an enjoyable and lively evening.

At the beginning of the party, each person got a list of Swahili 101 and to this day, five years later, I still hear some of these phrases ring out in the grocery store or in an email. Jambo Lynne!!

JAMBO                                         HELLO

KARIBU                                       WELCOME

ASANTE SANA                          THANK YOU VERY MUCH

HABARI  ZA  ASUBUHI         HOW ARE YOU THIS MORNING?

NZURI                                          FINE

HABARI  ZA  MCHANA          HOW ARE YOU THIS AFTERNOON?

HABARI  ZA  JIONI                  HOW ARE YOU THIS EVENING  ?

NDIYO                                           YES

HAPANA                                       NO

HAYA                                             OKAY

MZUNGU                                     WHITE PERSON

MAMA                                          MOTHER

BABA                                            FATHER

BIBI                                              GRANDMOTHER

BABU                                           GRANDFATHER

KAKA                                           BROTHER

DADA                                           SISTER

WATOTO                                    CHILDREN

RAFIKI                                        FRIEND

HAKUNA MATATA                “NO PROBLEM”

POLE, POLE                              SLOWLY, SLOWLY

KWAHERI                                 GOODBYE

SIMBA                                         LION

TEMBO                                       ELEPHANT

TWIGA                                       GIRAFFE

PUNDAMILIA                          ZEBRA

WALI                                           RICE

EMBE                                         MANGO

CHAKULA                                FOOD

CHOO                                         TOILET

KUIMBA                                    SING

PLASTIK                                    BUCKET

LALA SALAMA                        SLEEP IN PEACE/GO IN PEACE

MUNGU AKI BARIKI           GOD BLESS YOU